Like many people, my introduction to sourcing wild meat has been through small game, namely rabbits and grey squirrels. Here in the UK both of these are considered ‘pests’, grey squirrels in particular are actually an invasive, non-native species which has had a dramatic impact on our native red squirrels. Rabbits are more of a pest species than being of particular ecological concern, they graze the grass which is carefully cultivated by farmers for their livestock, and they dig large warrens in fields and hedgerows, creating holes everywhere which can break the legs of animals and people if your footing goes awry. Rabbits are, in the main, successful in our area and the population is certainly stable if not increasing on the farms which we visit.
They are also very good eating.
Rabbit meat isn’t particularly gamey if the carcass is paunched (the guts removed), skinned and then chilled soon after being dispatched. It is likened to chicken and this is about right, although it is very lean. When cooking rabbit you will need to use additional fat and this is particularly worth noting if you plan on cooking it rotisserie style or pegged out by an open fire, if you are cooking a rabbit this way then make sure to bring fat with you for basting.
My favourite way to cook rabbit is on the bone in a casserole. The following recipe is based upon that of Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall from his ‘Cook on the Wild Side’ series many moons ago.
Prep Time: 20 min | Cook Time: 1 hr 40 min | Total Time: 2 hr | Serves: 4
Rabbit is easiest cooked on the bone as the meat does not detach easily when raw, but can be pulled off with a fork before serving if you prefer. Cooking with the bones also gives a fantastic flavour.
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